Swaps that work

Ingredient substitutions

5 swaps matched to this ingredient list, with quantities shown for 2 servings. The ratios stay the same at any scale.

• Dairy 1:1

  Instead of 2 tbsp Greek yogurt

  Thick coconut or cashew yogurt

  Dairy-free and equally cooling. Choose an unsweetened one, and add a squeeze of lemon to restore the sharpness.

• Dairy 1:1 by weight

  Instead of 6 oz (170 g) block feta

  Firm ricotta salata, or marinated tofu for a vegan version

  Ricotta salata is milder and less salty. Tofu whips smooth but needs extra salt and lemon to read as cheese.

• Oils 1:1

  Instead of 3 tbsp olive oil, divided

  Avocado or light rapeseed oil

  Higher smoke point for hard searing and roasting, but you lose the peppery finish — save a little olive oil to drizzle at the end.

• Produce 1:1 by weight

  Instead of 1 pint (300 g) cherry tomatoes

  Good tinned San Marzano tomatoes, drained

  A reliable winter option. There is less water to cook off, so shorten the roasting time by about a third.

• Flour & grains 1:1 by slice

  Instead of 2 thick slices sourdough

  Any sturdy gluten-free loaf, toasted hard

  Gluten-free bread dries faster, so toast it just before serving and oil it lightly first.

Options

Make it your own

• Add some heat

  A pinch of chilli flakes bloomed in the cooking fat, or a spoonful of chilli crisp at the table, lifts the dish without rewriting it.

• Make it more substantial

  Fold in a cooked grain or a tin of drained beans; add a little extra salt and acid, since the starch will absorb both.

• Dairy-free version

  The dairy swaps below are all 1:1 or close to it. Expect a slightly leaner texture rather than a different dish.

• Change the herb

  Soft herbs swap by volume. Keep the woody ones in the cooking and the tender ones for finishing.

• Scale it for a crowd

  Doubling from 2 works, but use two pans rather than one — crowding steams what should brown.

At the table

Serving suggestions

• Serve straight from the pan while the edges are still crisp.
• A sharp seasonal fruit — grapefruit, plums, berries — balances the richness.
• Add a soft-boiled or jammy egg to turn it into a full plate.
• Keep flaky salt and a pepper mill on the table; both dishes like a last-second seasoning.

Get it right

Success tips

1. 1 Read the method through once before you start and set out the ingredients — most mistakes happen mid-step.
2. 2 Weigh or measure to the list at your chosen serving size; the quantities above are already scaled for 2 as written.
3. 3 Let the pan get properly hot and then leave the food alone; the colour you want only forms on undisturbed contact.
4. 4 Taste and adjust salt and acid at the end. A squeeze of lemon or a splash of vinegar fixes more dishes than extra salt does.
5. 5 Cook's note: Use block feta in brine, never pre-crumbled. Crumbles are coated in starch and whip into something chalky.

Keeping it

Storage & make-ahead

Kit

Equipment checklist

• Heavy skillet, ideally cast iron
• Blender or immersion blender
• Balloon whisk or hand mixer
• Wire cooling rack
• Digital scale, mixing bowls, sharp knife and board
• Large mixing bowl and a smaller one for dressings or seasonings
• Wooden spoon or silicone spatula for stirring and scraping
• Measuring cups and spoons, plus a ladle for serving

Questions

Frequently asked