Step by step

Method

4 steps

1. 1

   Cut 1½–2 pounds pork belly or shoulder into thick slabs (about 1 inch). Put them in a pot and cover with water by an inch. Add a few smashed garlic cloves, a chunk of ginger, 2 tablespoons doenjang or a splash of soy, and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, skim the foam, then simmer gently 45–60 minutes until a chopstick slides in with little resistance — the meat should feel tender, not falling apart into shreds.

2. 2

   Lift the pork onto a board and let it rest 5 minutes so the juices settle. Slice thin against the grain while it's still warm. You want soft, pale slices you can wrap.

3. 3

   Meanwhile stir a quick ssam sauce: 2 tablespoons gochujang, 1 tablespoon doenjang (or extra gochujang), 1 teaspoon sugar or honey, 1 teaspoon sesame oil, minced garlic, and a splash of water until it's spoonable and shiny.

4. 4

   Set out lettuce or perilla leaves, sliced garlic, raw chili if you like heat, and rice. Wrap a slice of pork with a dab of sauce and crunchy veg. The pork should taste clean and savory, with the sauce doing the spicy-sweet work.